Injira mu iduka iryo ari ryo ryose ry'imyenda ku isi.
Simbizi niba uri i Istanbul, Dhaka, São Paulo, cyangwa umujyi muto muri Nebraska. Reba hirya no hino. Bara ibintu bingana iki
muri iyo duka harimo ipamba
Umubare uzagutangaza.
Ipamba si fibre karemano ikunzwe cyane ku isi gusa. Iganza mu buryo burenze urugero nta kindi kintu kiri muri
isi y'imyenda irabikora. Turimo kuvuga ku gihingwa—igihingwa—cyabaye inkingi y'inganda mpuzamahanga ifite agaciro
amagana ya miliyari z'amadolari.
Byagenze bite?
Ntabwo byari impanuka. Kandi ntabwo byari mu ijoro rimwe.
Impamvu yoroshye yo gutsindira ipamba
Reka ntangire n'ibintu bisobanutse neza.
Ipamba iraryoshye. Irahumeka. Yinjiza ubushuhe. Ntigutera gushyuha nk'uko ubwoya bubikora, kandi ntigufata ubushyuhe nk'uko byakorwaga n'inganda za kera.
Ariko ihumure ryonyine ntirisobanura uburyo isi yose ifata ubutegetsi.
Impamvu nyayo yatumye ipamba itsindira?
Ni yo fibre ya mbere yashoboraga gukorwa mu bwinshi, igatunganywa mu bwinshi, kandi ikagezwa ku bwinshi ku rugero rumwe.
Tekereza kuri ibi. Mbere y’impinduramatwara mu nganda, imyenda myinshi yakorwaga mu myenda iyo ari yo yose yabonekaga mu gace—ubwoya mu turere dukonje, imyenda y’ipamba mu bice bimwe by’i Burayi, imyenda ya silike mu Bushinwa, n’ibindi byinshi. Ariko nta na kimwe muri ibyo cyashoboraga gupima nk’uko ipamba ryakozwe.
Dore icyo ipamba yari ifite kitari cyarigeze kiboneka ukundi:
Yakuriye mu turere twinshi (atari akarere kamwe gusa)
Ipamba rya Eli Whitney (1793) ryatumye gutunganya vuba kandi bihendutse
Ivumburwa ry'imashini ikora ubudodo bwatumye ikora ubudodo bwihuse kurushaho
Yahinduye ibara neza. Yarogeye neza. Yaramba.
Hagati mu myaka ya 1800, ipamba ryari rimaze kugera ku rwego rwo kuba umugozi ukomeye ku isi. Ibyo byari mbere y'uko imashini zigezweho zo kuboha zibaho.
Umwami w'Ipamba wakozwe mu gihe cy'imashini
Aha niho bihurira n'ibyo dukora mu by'ukuri.
Ubwo imashini ziboha zizunguruka zatangiraga kugaragara mu ntangiriro z'ikinyejana cya 20, ipamba ryari risanzwe ari amahitamo agaragara.
Kuki? Kubera ko ubudodo bw'ipamba bwari:
1. Iraboneka hose — uruhererekane rw'ibicuruzwa rwari rusanzweho
2. Guhuza - kuboha imashini bisaba ubudodo bumwe, kandi inganda zikora ipamba zari zarabitekerejeho
3. Ikora ibintu byinshi — yagendaga neza cyane haba ku imashini imwe cyangwa izifunga
4. Ihendutse — igipimo cyagabanyije igiciro
Itsindaimashini izengurutseNtabwo byatumye ipamba ikundwa. Ariko byatumye ipamba idatsindwa.
Imashini nziza ikoze mu ipamba ishobora gukora imyenda ku muvuduko utari warigeze utekerezwaho mu myaka ijana ishize. Kandi igihe isi yashakaga imyenda myinshi ya T-shirt—ihendutse, yihuta, kandi myiza—ipamba ni yo yabikoze.
Hanyuma abantu batangiye kubaza ikibazo
Reba, ipamba ntabwo ari nziza cyane.
Imyaka makumyabiri ishize yazanye ibibazo bikomeye:
Amazi. Ubuhinzi bw'ipamba bukoresha byinshi muri yo. Mu turere aho amazi ari make, icyo ni ikibazo gikomeye.
Imiti. Ubuhinzi busanzwe bw'ipamba bukoresha imiti yica udukoko n'ifumbire mvaruganda. Imibare ntabwo ari myiza.
Ubutaka. Ipamba ifata ubutaka bwinshi bw'ubuhinzi.
Aha niho ibintu birushaho gushimisha kurusha uko bisanzwe bivugwa ngo “ipamba ni nziza, ibishushanyo ni bibi”.
Igisubizo cy’inganda cyabaye ukuri:
Ipamba y’umwimerere yavuye ku isoko rikomeye ijya ku isoko rikomeye. Uburyo bwiza bwo guhinga (kuhira amazi, kurwanya udukoko dutose) bwagize ingaruka mbi. Kandi ku ruhande rw’imashini, imashini zigezweho zo kuboha zagenewe gukoresha ipamba neza—imyanda mike, umusaruro mwiza, umuvuduko mwinshi ugabanya ikiguzi cyo hejuru cy’ipamba ry’ubuziranenge.
Igitambaro cyiza cyane cy’ipamba ku isi kiracyahingwa, kigatozwa, kandi kigakorwa n’abantu bazi icyo bakora.
Ikibazo Nyacyo: Ipamba muri iki gihe
Dore ukuri kw'ukuri "kwamamaza ibikubiye ku rubuga" byinshi bitazakubwira:
Ipamba ubu ihanganye n'ibindi bikoresho byinshi bitabaho mu myaka 60 ishize. Polyester, nylon, elastane—izi fibre zafashe isoko rinini cyane, cyane cyane mu myambarire isanzwe no mu buryo bwihuse.
Ariko ipamba ririmo gukomera. Kandi mu bice bimwe na bimwe, ririmo gukura.
Kuki?
Kubera ko abaguzi, cyane cyane abakiri bato, batangiye kwita ku myenda yabo ikoze. Ntabwo ari mu buryo bwo kwiyerekana—bashaka gusa imyenda yumva imeze neza kandi idasenyuka nyuma yo kumesa gatatu.
Ipamba iratanga ibyo.
Kandi isoko ryarushijeho kuba ryiza. Imyenda ivanze—ipamba-poliyesita, ipamba-elastane, ipamba-modal—iguha ibyiza byombi. Uburyo ipamba ihumura kandi ihumeka neza hamwe n’uburyo ikora kandi iramba nk’iy’ibikoresho bya sintetike.
Imashini zigezweho zo kuboha zikora ibi bivange nk'inzozi. Imashini nziza yo gufunga ifite imiterere ikwiye y'ubudodo? Ushobora gukora imyenda ivanze ihenze, yambara neza, kandi ikubahiriza igiciro.
Ibi ni ingenzi niba urimo gukora imyenda
Ndahita ngira icyo mvuga.
Niba urimo gukora uruganda rw'imyenda—cyangwa uteganya gutangiza rumwe—ipamba iracyari yo nzira nziza yo kwiteganyiriza. Si ukubera ko ari yo ihendutse (si ko ari yo). Si ukubera ko ari yo yoroshye (ubuvanganzo bworoshye). Ariko ni ukubera:
Ubusabe burahamye — ikoreshwa ry'ipamba ryagiye ryiyongera buri myaka irenga ijana mu gihe cy'imyaka irenga ijana
Ibikorwa remezo birahari — abatanga ubudodo bw'ipamba, abashushanya irangi, abatunganya — urunigi rwose rurakuze
Imashini zagaragaye ko zikora — imashini zizengurutse n'izifunganye zikoresha ipamba ni zo zizwi cyane
gushyiraho mu nganda
Muri Morton, twubaka imashini zigezweho zijyanye neza n'ibyo bintu. Imashini zacu zizunguruka zikora ipamba
ikoti rimwe ku muvuduko mwinshi kandi ritaruhuka cyane. Imashini zacu zihuza zikora ipamba ry’igiciro cyinshi n’ipamba.
imyenda ihangana ku isoko ryo hejuru.
Tumaze igihe kinini tubikora kugira ngo tumenye icyo bikora.
Ipamba ntabwo ryabaye fibre ikunzwe cyane ku isi ku bw'impanuka.
Byayihesheje agaciro. Binyuze mu ruvange rw'inyungu karemano, udushya mu nganda, no kuba bituma abantu bumva bameze neza iyo bayambaye.
Kandi niba uri mu bucuruzi bwo gukora imyenda ya pamba?
Imashini uhitamo ziracyafite icyo zihindura.
MORTON — Ibisubizo byo kuboha bigezweho