Ngena nakweyiphi na ivenkile yempahla emhlabeni.
Andikhathali nokuba use-Istanbul, eDhaka, eSão Paulo, okanye kwidolophu encinci eNebraska. Jonga macala onke. Bala ukuba zingaphi izinto
kuloo venkile kukho umqhaphu
Inani liza kukumangalisa.
I-cotton ayisiyonto yendalo idumileyo nje kuphela emhlabeni. Ilawula ngendlela ephantse ingabikho enye into emhlabeni.
ihlabathi lempahla liyakwenza oko. Sithetha ngesityalo—isityalo—esathi ngandlela ithile saba ngumqolo weshishini lehlabathi elixabisa
amakhulu eebhiliyoni zeerandi.
Kwenzeka njani oko?
Akuzange kwenzeke ngengozi. Kwaye ngokuqinisekileyo akuzange kwenzeke ngobusuku obunye.
Isizathu Esilula Sokuba I-Cotton Won
Mandiqale ngezinto ezicacileyo.
Umqhaphu ukhululekile. Uyaphefumla. Ufunxa umswakama. Awukwenzi urhawuzelelwe ngendlela uboya oburhawuzelelwa ngayo, kwaye awubambeli ubushushu ngendlela izinto zokwenziwa ezazisenza ngayo ekuqaleni.
Kodwa intuthuzelo yodwa ayichazi ukuba kuza kuthatha ulawulo lwehlabathi.
Isizathu sokwenene sokuba umqhaphu uphumelele?
Yayiyifayibha yokuqala eyayinokuveliswa ngobuninzi, icutshungulwe ngobuninzi, kwaye ityiwe ngobuninzi.
Khawucinge nje. Ngaphambi koHlaziyo lweMizi-mveliso, uninzi lwempahla lwalusenziwa ngayo nayiphi na ifayibha eyayifumaneka ekuhlaleni—uboya kwiindawo ezibandayo, ilinen kwiindawo zaseYurophu, isilika eTshayina, ihemp kwiindawo ezininzi. Kodwa akukho nanye kwezo yayinokukhula ngendlela yomqhaphu.
Nantsi into eyayinayo umqhaphu ekungekho nto imbi eyayinayo:
Ikhule kwiindawo ezahlukeneyo zemozulu (hayi nje ingingqi enye)
I-cotton gin ka-Eli Whitney (1793) yenza ukucutshungulwa kwayo kwaba lula kwaye kwabiza kancinci
Ukuveliswa kwe-power loom kwenza ukuba ilukwe ibe ngelaphu ngokukhawuleza nangakumbi
Idaywe kakuhle. Ihlanjwe kakuhle. Ihlale ixesha elide.
Phakathi kwiminyaka yoo-1800, umqhaphu wawusele usiya ekubeni yifayibha yelaphu ebalaseleyo ehlabathini. Oko kwakungaphambi kokuba kubekho oomatshini bokuluka banamhlanje.
Inkosi yeCotton eyenziwe ngoomatshini
Nanku apho inxibelelana khona noko sikwenzayo ngokwenene.
Xa oomatshini bokuluka abajikelezayo baqala ukubonakala ekuqaleni kwenkulungwane yama-20, umqhaphu wawusele uyindlela ecacileyo.
Ngoba? Kuba umsonto wekotoni wawu:
1. Ifumaneka kuyo yonke indawo — uthotho lwezinto ezibonelelwayo sele lukhona
2. Ukuzingisa — ukuluka ngomatshini kufuna intambo efanayo, kwaye iifektri zekotoni zaziyifumene loo nto
3. Isebenziseka ngeendlela ezahlukeneyo — yayisebenza kakuhle kwiimashini zejezi enye kunye nezo ziqhagamshelweyo
4. Ixabiso eliphantsi — isikali sigcine ixabiso liphantsi
Iumatshini ojikelezayoayizange yenze umqhaphu uthandwe. Kodwa yenza umqhaphu wangoyiswa.
Ijezi enye yomqhaphu ejikelezayo enomatshini ojikelezayo inokuvelisa ilaphu ngesantya esingenakucingelwa kwiminyaka elikhulu eyadlulayo. Kwaye xa ihlabathi lalifuna ezinye iiT-shirts—ezingabizi kakhulu, ezikhawulezayo, nezingcono—umqhaphu yayilulo ulwelo olwalusenza kube nokwenzeka.
Emva koko abantu baqala ukubuza imibuzo
Khangela, umqhaphu awugqibelelanga.
Iminyaka engamashumi amabini edlulileyo izise imibuzo enzima:
Amanzi. Ukulima umqhaphu kusebenzisa kakhulu. Kwiindawo apho amanzi anqongophele khona, yingxaki enkulu leyo.
Iikhemikhali. Ukulima komqhaphu okuqhelekileyo kusebenzisa izibulali-zinambuzane kunye nezichumisi. Amanani akahle kangako.
Umhlaba. Umqhaphu uthatha umhlaba omninzi wezolimo.
Kulapho izinto ziba nomdla khona kunengxoxo eqhelekileyo ethi “umqhaphu ulungile, izinto ezenziwe ngobuchule azilunganga”.
Impendulo yoshishino ibe yinyani:
Umqhaphu wendalo usuke ekubeni yindawo ephambili waya kwicandelo elikhulu lemarike. Iindlela ezingcono zolimo (ukunkcenkceshela ngamathontsi, ulawulo lwezinambuzane oludibeneyo) ziye zabangela umonakalo. Kwaye kwicala loomatshini, oomatshini bokuluka banamhlanje benzelwe ukuphatha umqhaphu ngokufanelekileyo—inkunkuma encinci, isivuno esingcono, isantya esiphezulu esinciphisa iindleko eziphezulu zomqhaphu osemgangathweni ophezulu.
Ilaphu lekotoni elingcono kakhulu emhlabeni lisakhuliswa, liphothwe, kwaye lilukiwe ngabantu abayaziyo into abayenzayo.
Umngeni Wokwenene: Umqhaphu Namhlanje
Nantsi inyaniso enyanisekileyo engenakuxelelwa "lurhwebo lomxholo" oluninzi:
Umqhaphu ngoku ukhuphisana nothotho lwezinto ezenziwe ngokwenziwa ezazingekho kwiminyaka engama-60 eyadlulayo. I-Polyester, i-nylon, i-elastane—ezi fayibha zithathe isabelo esikhulu semarike, ingakumbi kwiimpahla ezisebenzayo kunye nefashoni ekhawulezayo.
Kodwa umqhaphu ubambe umhlaba wawo. Kwaye kwezinye iindawo, uyakhula.
Ngoba?
Kuba abathengi, ingakumbi abancinci, baqala ukukhathalela ukuba iimpahla zabo zenziwe ngantoni. Hayi ngendlela yokuzigwagwisa—bafuna nje ilaphu elivakala lihle kwaye lingaphuki emva kokuhlamba kathathu.
Umqhaphu uyayinika loo nto.
Kwaye imakethi iye yaba nobuchule ngakumbi. Amalaphu axutyiweyo—umqhaphu-ipoliyesta, umqhaphu-elastane, umqhaphu-oguquguqukayo—akunika eyona nto ilungileyo kuzo zombini ezi zinto. Imvakalelo kunye nokuphefumla komqhaphu kunye nokuqina kunye nokuqina kwezinto ezenziwe ngokwenziwa.
Oomatshini bokuluka banamhlanje baphatha le mixube njengephupha. Ngaba umatshini odibeneyo olungileyo oneseti efanelekileyo yentambo? Ungavelisa ilaphu elixutyiweyo le-premium elivakala libiza kakhulu, linxitywa kakuhle, kwaye livumela ixabiso.
Oku Kubalulekile Ukuba Wenza Ilaphu
Ndiza kungena ngqo kwingongoma.
Ukuba usebenzisa imboni yelaphu—okanye uceba ukuqala enye—umqhaphu useyeyona ndlela ikhuselekileyo. Hayi kuba yeyona ingabizi kakhulu (ayinjalo). Hayi kuba yeyona ilula (izinto ezenziweyo zilula). Kodwa kungenxa yokuba:
Imfuno izinzile — ukusetyenziswa komqhaphu kuye kwanda rhoqo emva kweminyaka elishumi ngaphezulu kwekhulu leminyaka
Kukho iziseko zophuhliso — ababoneleli ngemisonto yekotoni, abadayi, nabagqibezeli—lonke uthotho luvuthiwe
Oomatshini baqinisekisiwe — oomatshini abajikelezayo nabanxibelelanayo abasebenzisa umqhaphu zezona mveliso ziqondwa kakuhle
ukuseta kwishishini
Apha eMorton, sakha oomatshini abalungiselelwe kanye ezi zinto. Oomatshini bethu abajikelezayo baphatha umqhaphu
ijezi enye ngesantya esiphezulu kwaye ixesha lokungasebenzi lincinci. Oomatshini bethu bokudibanisa i-interlock bavelisa umqhaphu okumgangatho ophezulu kunye nomxube wekotoni
amalaphu akhuphisana kakhulu kwimarike.
Sele sikwenza oku ixesha elide ngokwaneleyo ukuze sazi ukuba yintoni esebenzayo.
Umqhaphu awuzange ube yifayibha ethandwayo kwihlabathi ngengozi.
Yayifumana. Ngokudityaniswa kweenzuzo zendalo, uphuhliso lwemizi-mveliso, kunye nenyaniso yokuba yenza abantu bazive bekhululekile xa beyinxibile.
Kwaye ukuba ukwishishini lokwenza ilaphu lekotoni?
Oomatshini obakhethayo basenokwenza umahluko omkhulu.
I-MORTON — Izisombululo zokuluka eziPhambili